19 July - Edinburgh to Orkney to Shetland and back to Edinburgh

Pretty busy last week as we spent it in Orkney and Shetland.  Both places not quite what I was expecting.  Much more green and lush - more like Ireland than Highlands Scotland in some ways and both places seem to be thriving.  Overall does not seem they are communities in decline.  Lots of children and families around and the cruise ships are there.  The cruise ships are not greatly liked, at least as far as we heard in Orkney. The facilities aren't there in terms of cafes and restaurants to accommodate the volume of tourists.  For both places we had to book all our dinners or else it was the local chippy.

Had some of the best meals of the trip in both places.  The food is delicious.  Had probably the most delicious scallops I have eaten, in Orkney and monkfish - which reminded me of toothfish.  Also had a great French meal in Shetland - this little French restaurant where the owners are French and served delicious genuine French cuisine.  We stuck to seafood a lot of the time as that was incredibly good although Stephen had the biggest beef steak in Kirkwall, Orkney, which he said was very good.

The accents were also different than I was expecting.  Almost neutral.  Not at all like the Scottish Highlanders.  Good for me, as could understand most of what was said.  And a number of places fly the Norwegian flag, as both islands were originally part of Norway and then Denmark when Denmark ruled Norway.  Lots of Scandinavian tourists, especially in Orkney.

The islands were handed over to Scotland in 1472 as part of the dowry for a Danish Princess as the Danish King at that time was broke. And the Scots never handed them back despite a few attempts made by the Danes.  Apparently most identify as Shetlanders or from Orkney rather than Scots.

Overall we thought Orkney was more tourist friendly.  Better geared for it.  Our B&B in Orkney was very nice.  A room in an old farmhouse that had been renovated very recently by a young family.  The husband was very friendly and helpful and lovely breakfast served in a breakfast room with a view each morning.  The B&B in Shetland was.... strange.  We got sent a number for entering the front door about a day beforehand and directed to a particular room.  Pluses were it was clean and bed was comfortable and bathroom clean and functional.  Minus was the breakfast which was store bought stuff left in your room each morning - nothing fresh.  Lots of biscuits, muesli/oat bars, chocolate croissants from a packet, orange juice and Costa coffee. And no contact with the owner Was odd as she lived in the house. We survived.  I think I'd find the B&B on Airbnb as well as that essentially is what it was.  Was not unhappy to leave there but stayed in a lot worse.

We flew up to Orkney and then between the islands and back to Edinburgh.  Used the Scottish airline - Logan Air.  Really good.  Little tartan clad propeller planes.  Definitely better than  the ferry option, for me at least. And much better than Ryan Air.

The week was essentially looking at ancient sites from the Stone Age, Iron Age, Viking and Medieval eras, eating good food and seeing some impressive scenery and cute wildlife.  Also avoided buying a garishly coloured Fair Isle jumper (which a number of our American friends seemed obliged to buy).  Walking around the ancient sites was quite surreal at times as mostly you can just walk in and out of the Stone Age etc houses, Churches, workshops, Viking long houses etc and around the Standing Stones.  Given the volume of tourists, not sure for how long that will continue. Saw some tourists resting their hands and cheeks against standing stones for (of course) a photo.  The stupidity of people can at times be interesting. Anyway, details of what we saw (and I can remember) is below.

Orkney

They have an impressive Cathedral - St Magnus in Kirkwall.  Originally a 1100's structure but was restored in the 1850's, but not overly so fortunately.  One of the more interesting Cathedrals we have visited.  A number of very very old tombstones that are now kept inside.  The oldest is from the 13th Century being (they think) that of a Knights Templar.  Lots of skulls and crossbones and hour glasses on the tombstones.

 

And this is the look on Stephen's face when I said we were visiting yet another Church (not really, he also found this one interesting).

We also saw the Earls Palace and Bishops Palace which are both just across the road from the Cathedral.  The Bishops Palace is a 12th century palace built at the same time as the Cathedral when it was part of Norway.  It housed the Cathedral's first Bishop - William the Old of the Norwegian Catholic Church.  (Maybe I can call Will that now he is over 30). The Earls Palace was built by Patrick Stewart in the 1600's (so when the Scots had taken over the place). And Patrick Stewart (who was the 2nd Earl of Orkney) was the son of Robert, First Earl of Orkney who was a bastard son of King James V.   History is not kind to Patrick who was apparently not very nice to the Shetlanders and Orkney(ers?).  Bit of a tyrant who also went around killing people and potential rivals and was pretty bad at managing the finances of the islands.  Anyway he ended up being sent to Scotland and eventually executed for treason in 1615.  

Had delicious dinner on the first night at a restaurant called Twenty One, which is the name of our favourite Hungarian restaurant back in Sydney.  This was definitely not Hungarian but did small plates and was where we had the best scallops I think we have ever had.  Also drinks beforehand at the Kirkwall Hotel which was very pleasant.  Served Stephen's favourite local beer - Caledonian Best.

Did much visiting of Neolithic sites on day one.  Saw Maeshowe which is a cairn burial chamber.  Big grassy mound that you can walk inside.  Of course thereafter any grassy mound, no matter how small, was designated a cairn by us.  Stephen specialized in pointing out tiny mounds on our walks and insisting they were  cairns for mice. Inside Maeshowe were ancient runes scratched on the walls from when some Vikings back from Jerusalem were sheltering there during a raid.  The writing was translated by the guide and was very funny.  It is thought they were mainly done by young drunk men or who were at the very least bored.  Runes were along the lines of Hagar was here.  Hagar's wife has a ... etc.  The Victorians also broke into the mound - through the roof to ensure maximum damage (!) and it is now believed that the  place would have been full of bones etc but the Victorians specialized in removing artifacts, which were never to be seen again. 

This part of Orkney - the West Mainland -  is full of these types of sites. Also saw the Standing Stones of Stenness, Ring of Brodgar (more standing stones) and Barnhouse - Neolithic village.  You could just wander around, in and out of all of this.  Tour buses around but not too bad fortunately.

 

Stephen with the world's smallest standing stone or as he called it 'my own pointed stone'.

Also got to an actual excavation site - the Ness of Brodgar.  It's a Neolithic village where the tops of it became uncovered during a storm.  (This seems to be how the sites often get discovered). No tour buses here and we got a 1 hour tour of the site.  Like something out of the show Time Team.  Very interesting and the guide made it more so as she could explain what we were seeing, which to an untrained eye could at times just look like a pile of stones.  She explained that there were villages built on top of other villages, built on top of other villages etc. One of the reasons why it can be very difficult to work out what was going on at these sites.  Decided could never have been an archeologist as knees and back would not have been up to it.  

Saw another neolithic village the next day called Skara Brae.  This was fascinating as the place still had the stone beds and hearths and shelving in place in the excavated village.  Beach outside was also impressive.  Can see why they established settlements where they did.  Again, could just walk in and out of these ancient houses.

Also saw Skaill House which is next door to Skara Brae.  17th century manor house.  The Laird at that time discovered Skara Brae and took some artifacts, which strangely no one seems worried about. It is situated on what is thought to be an old pre-Viking burial ground, potentially Pictish.  The Picts seem to be a mysterious enigmatic lot who left very little behind to tell us how they lived.  Or whoever followed just destroyed all their stuff.   Who knows. Skaill House is not as interesting a place as Skara Brae but still good to wander around.  Owned by current Laird.  Stephen did manage to find some fishing rods though in the gun room.

We then continued to the edge of the west mainland to Yesnaby.  Very scenic. 

 Lots of dramatic cliffs.  And then down to Stromness - second largest town in Orkney.  Substantially smaller than Kirkwall.  Looked very old.  It is where a lot of the ferries arrive from the mainland.

On way back to Kirkwall headed south to see Scapa Flow.  Big lot of water.  Where some boats were sunk by the Germans early in WWII and Churchill decided to build some barriers to stop that happening again.  It worked I believe.  Also saw some medieval round church down south and remains of an old Norse drinking hall where some important Norse person was killed.  Back to Kirkwall to watch the women's final at Wimbledon.  Starting to get a bit blasé about seeing these ancient bits.

Been very lucky with weather.  Cool and windy and only little wisps of rain.  Saw cruise ship in Kirkwall Harbour today and lots of little buses ferrying cruse ship people around for excursions.  Skirted around them. 

They use some different words here. Two I have heard regularly are "Outwith" which means outside or beyond and "Peedie" which means little.  Particularly like Peedie.  Might try it out at home.

Last day headed north up the western coast, driving then  from the north-west to north-east on the top of the west mainland area and I spoke too soon as the weather turned cooler.  Needed puffa jacket, warm jumper, hat and hood on for a walk around Brough of Birsay.  Brough means I believe an area, enclosure, round tower or outer wall of a feudal castle. (Checked Wikipedia as curious). The Earl of Orkney used to live up here apparently plus was also an old Viking and Pictish site.  Like now, everyone just builds on top of what was there before.  Spectacular headland position so can see why was inhabited.  Can only now access via a causeway at low tide.  Hoped to see puffins but no luck.  Saw lots of other birds though.  Very impressive dramatic scenery and again can just wander in and out of these ancient sites.

Then headed east to the Broch of Gurness. Again checked on wikipedia and Broch means a prehistoric stone tower in north Scotland and adjacent islands.  That makes sense.  The Broch has Iron Age and old Viking houses.  Not sure why it isn't as popular with tourists as say Skara Brae as is quite impressive.  You can walk into the broch in the middle of the settlement and see the old hearth etc and the entrance way is still there for you to walk through.  Standing reading a sign that points out the remains of a Viking woman were found here in a Viking grave (in the shape of a long boat) and you turn your head to the right and there is the grave.  Hope the volume of tourists don't eventually ruin these places.

Had lunch overlooking a lovely beach and bay catching glimpses of seals fishing in front of us.  Continued to Kirkwall down the eastern side.  Very lush countryside and prosperous looking farming communities.  Delicious last dinner at the Kirkwall Inn.  I had a monkfish and Stephen the largest steak I've seen in a while.  Both excellent.

Shetland

Flight took all of 20 minutes and realized after announcement from Captain that were landing that actually just left once everyone had checked in and luggage loaded.  Departure times are obviously more like guidelines.

Shetland has some pretty dramatic scenery. Seems a bit hillier than Orkney.  Still very green and lush.  Lots of Shetland ponies around.  You drive across the runaway to exit the airport in your hire car.  It's that small.

As mentioned above, B&B is strange.  Have seen who we assume are the owners of the guesthouse, foraging for chicken eggs in the backyard but otherwise no contact.  A cleaner leaves a breakfast pack in the fridge and wicker baskets each morning. Worked out coffee machine's operation the first morning once we'd found a you tube video.  But Shetland not overburdened with hotels or guesthouses so it will do.

Had great dinner first night at a place called The Dowry.  Managed to get squeezed in and have booked all 3 nights dinner as place is packed with tourist groups.  More Americans here for some reason than on Orkney. We are staying in Lerwick, the largest town and it is not large - some 7500 people.

Headed to the South Mainland on day one and saw Jarlshof (which I kept mispronouncing as Jarslberg much to Stephen's amusement). Yet another old site.  Really well done though.  It is a settlement ranging from the Bronze Age to the Iron Age up until the 17th century.  We have become quite the experts in recognizing the intricacies of these ancient dwellings. Still not interested in a second career as an archeologist though. Was also very 'atmospheric' as saw it in driving rain and wind.  They were a hardy bunch that lived here in those various times. Actually still a hardy bunch that live in Shetland.  Also lots of low cloud and fog for Stephen to drive through.  Bit of concentration required especially on the single track roads. Also enjoyed the Scottish wildflowers on the side of the road as we sped along. For such a dramatic landscape seems a strange contrast.

 

Then to Sumburgh Lighthouse and finally we get to see some puffins - actually lots of them.  I photographed them and videoed them and photographed them some more etc etc.  Lots of pictures to delete.  They are very cute.  Plus scenery again was very dramatic.

Drove onto St Ninians Isle and Tombolo beach. Is very scenic but was really miserable weather and visibility was very poor so just stood on a headland and checked it out from afar. Had some sandwiches and a banana each sitting in car then headed back to Lerwick.  Did one of the tourist walks which took us past The Lodberrie - more famously known as Jimmy Perez's house in the series Shetland. Quite run down actually.  Privately owned now and think Jimmy Perez has been written out of the series so no more Lodberrie shots I assume.  While a bit run down, is still interesting as it is literally perched on the water and would originally have had a jetty or gantry attached for boats to dock and load from. Little beach alongside it and saw a young man that went for a quick dip in the water there.  Was heard to say it's pretty cold.  Assume it was a dare or he was quite mad.  Aside from the cold, the harbour is full of boats, so pretty sure the water quality is not great for swimming in. 

Also saw an impressive looking school (that I was informed Jimmy Perez had attended).

The Shetlanders really should speak to the people capitalizing on the Harry Potter phenomena.  Very poor effort on their part.  You'd think they'd be selling Jimmy Perez or Tosh dolls at the very least.

Saw some old WWII gun placements etc on a headland, then strolled down their main drag - Commercial Street.  Not the most exciting of shopping streets. Main excitement is some new cafe - Pete's Cafe, which sells many many cakes and is full of many many middle aged women filling up on said cakes.  We ventured there for lunch one day and Stephen nearly lost a limb trying to place our lunch order at the counter.

Oh yes and they also have an old fort in the town - Fort Charlotte. The earliest version built for the First Dutch War has disappeared. The next version was built in 1665 during the Second Dutch War but there is nothing left of that version too because during the Third Anglo-Dutch War the Dutch burned the fort down as it was unmanned. Query why you'd have an unmanned fort.  (Basically a series of wars between England and the Dutch). It was then rebuilt about a century later during the American War of Independence but the newer version never saw any action.  And it was named after Queen Charlotte, wife of George III.  Stephen was a bit worried the cannons may still be able to be lit.

Also went to the Shetland Museum which was very good. 

Went to very very good French restaurant - C'est la Vie- for dinner. Crevattes for entre - largish prawns and monkfish for our mains - cooked with smoked paprika and tumeric.  Delicious.  We had a bottle of wine that night and shared a creme brulee for dessert. Surprisingly very good meal.  But not good enough to tempt me to fly that far ever again to repeat the experience.

Last day in Shetland; we drove up to the area called NorthMavine.  Were told it has some of the best coastline in Scotland.  Luckily for us the weather cleared and it was not a day of fog, driving rain and freezing temperatures.  That always helps.   We stopped part way up to visit a very little place called Hillswick.  Mainly stopped because they had public toilets but also found ourselves in a tiny wildlife sanctuary where a very excited youngish teenager showed us the 2 baby seals they had rescued.  They were both very cute with the hugest black eyes.   Our guide was also very excited to chat to us about Australian wildlife.  We did drive through a number of very small villages on the way to the Cliffs of Eshaness and yes the scenery was stunning.  We kept pulling over to take many snaps of the scenery.  Esha Ness is home to Scotland's Volcano.  You can see the layers of volcanic ash and lava in the cliffs.  Was definitely worth the drive - very scenic.

And now we are back in Edinburgh for a couple of weeks before we head home. Seems very warm after Shetland - in T shirt and light jeans today.  Ventured to Stockbridge today to visit George Bower for venison and Mellis for some very nice cheese.  A new cake shop and M&S food shop has appeared there in our absence. Stephen also showed me a monkfish in the window of a fish shop.  They are really ugly.  Taste much better than they look.  Stockbridge is  only continuing to go more upmarket. Resisted popping into the Rare Birds bookshop - only women work there and only sell books by women authors. Will see how the luggage weight is going before I decide whether or not to buy any more books.  Books or whisky in the bags- it's a conundrum.