15 May

Spain

Just back from 10 days in Spain.  Mainly in Seville with a day trip to Cordoba and 2 nights in Grenada.  Got in the swing of things by the end, with the more relaxed attitude to many things in Spain.  Hope that doesn't change with the increasing sameness of places due to globalization. Had stunning weather every day and especially liked the food - the fruit is so sweet, the very easy to drink Spanish wine, the chilling in the Plaza near our hotel in Seville, the Alhambra in Granada and the Real Alcazar in Seville.  Took way too many pictures of Moorish tiles, Gothic Cathedral, ancient forts etc.  Writing this as we sit sandwiched in our seats in a Ryan Air flight back to Edinburgh.  Very efficient is Ryan Air but they do give new meaning to 'cattle class'. I'm sure Stephen's back will eventually unwind after a few days back in Edinburgh.  (Nearly said 'home' as that is what it currently feels like).  Anyway detail below on our Spanish sojourn.

Seville

Main excitement of Day 1 was eventually getting phones to work here using our UK numbers.  No more having to carry a paper map.  Definitely won't look like tourists now while staring at google maps on our phones.

Hotel is located in Plaza Alameda de Hercules, which is either the oldest or second oldest public garden in Spain.  Built in 1574.  Now all paved.  Four incongruous looking columns are now situated in the Plaza.  Two have regal looking lions perched on top, another has Hercules, who supposedly founded the City and the fourth one has Caesar who restored the City during Roman times.  Not sure what obsession is with being the oldest or biggest but seems to be important in tourist parlance.  The columns are meant to be Roman style.  Seem to be old but not sure and also read were originally placed elsewhere.  I tend to be very skeptical as to historical sights.  An old 1500 year old Plaza is actually a remodeled 1990 one etc.  Think a lot of the Plaza was remodeled about 10 years ago as part of an urban regeneration project.  Place was full of brothels and drugs etc before then.  Helps that they have stuck a very big Police Station in the Plaza. 

As usual accidentally staying in currently one of the hippest parts of Seville.  As also usual brought average age up somewhat in local bars but hotel is full of baby boomers like us.  Trendy looking baby boomers.  Like us.  Lots of French staying here who speak less Spanish than us. I'm more confident for some reason trying out my Spanish, albeit relying heavily on google translate.  Do my usual trick of switching between languages when it suits though.  Used "una momento' with a waiter the other night, confidently telling Stephen I'm sure he'll know French.  Stephen pointed out was Italian. 

Hotel was 19th century palace where a famous sculptor called Anthony Susillo lived.  Never heard of him. Have now. 1800's sculptor.  It has a lovely internal courtyard covered with plants.  Not sure it was a 'palace' in the way we understand the term but was probably a very nice house at one time.

Restaurant last night (our first night) was packed (Duo Tapas).  We snagged a booking at 8.30pm which is when they open.  Place was heaving by the time we left.  If that's a Monday night, can't imagine what Saturday night must be like.  Delicious food although may tire of fried tapas by end of trip.  Croquettes, tortillas, fried goats cheese salad (a favourite) and they even do tempura vegetables although not as good as at home.  

Some photos below of our 'famous' columns, the Plaza and our hotel.

Visited the Real Alcazar on our first full day and very much enjoyed it.  It is enormous and you get a very good sense of all the different eras the buildings have accommodated.  Like a maze as well.  The Catholics retained a lot of Moorish architecture although I think the Catholics copied/maintained some of it once they took over so not sure the age of some of it.  There are stunning tiles everywhere, internal courtyards with fountains and impressive woodwork including with the ceilings.  (Later edit - actually spent a lot of time craning our necks looking at ceilings). Visited the Upper Palace where the Royal family live.  They do alright.  Peacocks in gardens, lovely rose gardens.  All quite spectacular. 

Americans are everywhere like in Edinburgh and rarely heard an Australian voice.  Given Australian dollar, no surprise.  Given US dollar, no surprise they are over here.  Dinner tonight (2nd night) at Casa Roberto was really good fun. Sat outside. Dogs upstairs on a balcony were patrolling the street.  Had a crazy waiter and so sunny at 8.30pm should have brought sunglasses.  Stephen ordered an artichoke dish with prawns that he had spied at lunchtime when we booked.  Two glasses of Rjoka and a glass each of Pedro Jimenez later, we staggered back to our hotel.  Didn't make it.  Such a lovely night, sat at one of the many cafes outside our hotel.  Very atmospheric.  Kids playing football in the Plaza, dogs chasing balls, people playing dice games at tables.  Great fun people watching.

Writing this up now back at Edinburgh.  Will post some more photos and description of more of Spanish trip tomorrow or maybe the day after.... Still in the Spanish swing of things - there is no rush.