17 April 2024 - River Halladale

2 and a half weeks into holiday.  Sitting in a little stone cottage in far North Scotland (about a 6 hour drive from Edinburgh) on a Wednesday morning while rest of the family are out trying to catch some salmon on the River Halladale. It is blustery and cold up here although we have sighted some sun.  Oh yes and there is rain of course on and off.

Scenery is quite beautiful in that Scottish Highlands fashion. Purplish hills with lots of yellow gorse bushes and daffodils interspersed in little clumps.  The cottage is part of a small complex- a large stone house (the "Big House"), a Gatekeepers stone lodge and 3 other cottages of varying sizes for the fishermen.  Ours is the smallest - 2 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms, full kitchen and separate sitting area.  It is very warm and cozy. Outside it's gate is an estuary and a beach.  Apparently people do surf here.  Some serious wet suits required.  Been for a couple of walks along the beach - very wild but stunning in its way.

I have been out to supervise the fishing a couple of times.  I will admit the first time I ended up back in the car and did fall asleep. Again some stunning scenery along the River when  there isn't driving rain. Yesterday found ourselves pelted by ice.  Ah Scotland. You get to the River beats through farmlands so at times have been closely supervised by sheep.  Stephen has  hired a ghillie (Ruben) the last 2 days which has been useful as he helps them all and allows Stephen  to do some fishing instead of just untangling everyone's lines.

Will has easily remembered how to fly fish and Em has picked it up very quickly.  In their fishing gear - waders etc, I think Will and Em look like Winnie the Pooh and Piglet.  Very cute.

Will and Em bought up some stunning wine from London and with the food prepared and bought in Edinburgh by us (last night's venison stew was especially nice) we have eaten and drunk very well.

I have volunteered to make a chicken risotto tonight which may be a poor second to last night's stew.

We had a lovely dinner at a place called Monteiths in Edinburgh  with Will and Em.  On the Royal Mile but not touristy.  I even tried some of Em's entree which was haggis.  It was delicious.  I had a really nice goats cheese  and mushroom wellington.  They also have very very nice cocktails.  We were guided by Will and Em who said avoid the wine and just have cocktails. So we did.

Its been a lot of fun catching up with Will and Em.  Great to see them face to face and hear all their news. London looks to be suiting them.  Both look well and very happy and settled. 

Just glanced out the window to see a bit of sun.  Contemplating a beach walk but then saw black clouds so no, will continue with this longish blog.

Back to us - Edinburgh seems to have bounced back after last few years. Large number of apartments being built in Leith so think the area is going well.  Place is still full of characters - very much a mixed socio-economic area although think the young professionals will eventually dominate.  There is now a tram into the city centre and buses so very easy trip into the centre. It's also not a difficult walk up Leith Walk.  Very happy where we are for the 4 months, being away from the hordes of tourists.  Apartment is in an old bonded warehouse.  Very warm, good size with a full kitchen and close to public transport.  Already discovered some great restaurants/pubs.  (Chosen some photos from the River Halladale which have randomly inserted themselves below)

The RoseLeaf pub/restaurant is a short walk and great food.  Also the Barologist and Pizza Geeks. Plenty of choice.    

Spent some time setting ourselves up with UK numbers (went with esims which are working well) and getting a few smaller things to make apartment more comfortable for us.  All takes time when you are in a strange city. Also had to visit one of Stephens friends to pick up some more fishing gear.  So been busy with domestics.  Sorted now I think so will enjoy doing a bit more wandering around Edinburgh for a couple of weeks before we fly to Seville for a week or so.